DETROIT (CBS Detroit) A New York City pizza joint is trying to get a slice of the market there by serving up what the world is coming to know as Detroit-style pies while in another spot a classic Detroit coney island is taking a bite out of the Big Apple.
Emmy Squared bakes rectangular pizzas with the tomato sauce on top and cheesy-brown crust–a far cry from the traditional New York-style –large, foldable slices you can eat on the go — but familiar to Detroiters. As for the coney island, the New York site is called Ed and Bev’s. It was started by brothers Max and Eli Sussman, Detroit natives.
“The brothers have a deep, well-documented affinity for the “Coney Island diner” food of their home city of Detroit,” according to eater.com. “The menu includes bread with sizzling cheese, a burger with cheddar sauce, and a classic Coney dog made with brisket chili. Snack options include fresh spanakopita, McClure’s pickles, Better Made Potato Chips. The most expensive item is $10.”
As for the pizza, Detroit-area native Kelly Dobkin of Zagat.com says Emmy Squared was started by two guys who aren’t even from Detroit — but are sold on its pizza.
A pizza is considered “Detroit” if it has a certain kind of crispy, cheesy crust… It’s called frico. Frico happens by drizzling cheese onto the dough that touches the pan. It turns crispy brown in the oven.
“It’s got that real fried crispiness to it,” Dobkin said. “I didn’t actually know the term either until I started talking to the folks here that opened their Detroit style pizza place.”
Dobkin says many other regional pizzas are creeping into the Big Apple, a sign that New Yorkers’ palettes are more receptive these days. And that Detroiters have more than cars to export.
Detroit-area native Kelly Dobkin of Zagat.com says it’s part of a regional food invasion from across the country.
“You’re seeing not only Detroit style, but St. Louis style pizza has popped up,” Dobkin said. “There’s been a couple of Chicago places opening. I don’t know if you know this, but these two brothers from Detroit opened a coney island here, called Ed and Bev’s, a Detroit-style coney island. And they serve coney dog and Greek salad all the stuff you would find at your average coney in Detroit.”